Motorcycle enthusiast and collector extraordinaire Daniel Schoenewald invited us to join him on a road trip for a week in South Dakota. Ultimate Motorcycling had two retro-styled machines—the Yamaha XSR900, sporting Christian Sarron race colors, and the striking emerald green Kawasaki Z650RS—in the stable, waiting to stretch out on the roads. UM President Arthur Coldwells and I jumped at the chance to ride the roads of South Dakota, arriving from California just as Sturgis 2022 was ending.
Day 1: Friday, August 12
We loaded the XSR900 and Z650RS as well as two of Daniel’s own motorcycles—a Kawasaki Z900RS and a Honda’s now-discontinued CB1100 EX—into his trailer. We hooked it up to his high-performance GMC Sierra 3500 truck and left the outskirts of Los Angeles on I-15. We went via the Mojave Desert, passing Barstow and the world-famous Baker thermometer—the 109 degrees outside temperature was noted as we relished the air conditioning in our cocooned environment.
On the approach to Primm, Nevada, there’s an area optimistically named Ivanpah Lake—it’s usually as dry as old bones. However, following recent storms, we found ourselves looking at a large expanse of water. Birds alighted on the surface, and it had the refreshingly sparkling look you’d expect from a lake.
After a shockingly priced $10 per cup of coffee Starbucks stop, we go forth and soon find ourselves chugging through Las Vegas traffic. Moving at around the 59 mph mark, we gawk at the ostentatious hotels set against a raincloud dark sky. After passing downtown, we ease out of town and find ourselves surrounded by varying sand-colored houses, followed by casinos and shopping malls, before it dwindles to open countryside. The sky is a dark purple-gray threatening more rain.
Gloriously straight roads took us through Mesquite, across the northwest corner of Arizona, and into Utah.
As we approached St. George—our first stopover. After some fidgeting around on Google, we booked a Motel 6. It turned out to be the ideal place—near the freeway with spacious parking. After ordering take-out pizza, we sat outside our rooms on Daniel’s fold-out chairs, drinking whisky and beer and telling stories. We exchanged conversation with a friendly guy called John, who wandered up for a chat and shared his spliff with us—well, he offered.
Day 2: Saturday, August 13
We broke Motel 6 camp around 8 a.m. With Arthur driving, we continued on I-15, skirting Zion National Park amongst sublime carmine landscapes on the way to Salt Lake City.
About two hours later, we pulled into Beaver for gas and added diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) to the truck. We took some cute photos of Chaz. Oh, yes, Charley, the non-suffering Ultimate Motorcycling mascot, was with us.
Burning up the miles, we were drawn to the Subway in Orem for our next stop. Then, 45 miles south of Salt Lake City, we pulled off I-15. Daniel went into the supermarket for water while we listened to Brian Slark chatting on our very own Motos & Friends podcast.
Buoyed by the high feeling you get from the excitement of traveling, we wound our way beside Provo River, which had lots of people water rafting in colorful clusters of floating rubber rings. On the Deer Creek Reservoir, personal watercraft could be seen darting around. This looks like an ideal vacation area.
The scenery here is mountainous, with billowing low-hung white clouds interrupted at one point by a moody patch that we could see was a rainstorm just sitting in one spot. Daniel took over the driving after another stop for gas and more DEF—an essential additive if you want your diesel truck to work!
Picking up Interstate 80, we headed to Rawlins, Wyoming. Wow—into another state! There are many old, abandoned motels in this area. We booked into the first habitable motel—a Super 8 running $80 for three adults, including breakfast. We did have to pay an extra $15 for Charley, which I thought was a bit steep—after all, he needs zero indoor facilities.
After a refreshing drink, we drove to a Dollar Sense for a TV connection to watch MotoGP practice, qualifying, and racing. We returned for the recommended Cappy’s Restaurant & Bar, but it was closed—no idea why.
Five minutes up the road, we came across Michael’s “Big City” Steakhouse; we found the locals just call it Mike’s even though the sign says “Big City Bar & Grill.” It’s complicated. After some conflab at reception, Charley was permitted to enter.
We were seated at the wooden-edged bar, resting our elbows and quaffing beer before enjoying a terrific meal of steak and chips. I felt the beady gazes of the multitude of mounted stuffed stags.
Walls decorated with beer memorabilia mixed in with Mike’s accolades for restaurant longevity and qualification service. Mike’s proudly explained they opened in 1973.
A large plastic smiling M&M figure led the way to a dark dance floor. The stage included a pole to dance ’round, or swing on. Oh, and a large cock(erel)—the metal variety.
Returning to the Super 8, we watched the exciting MotoAmerica racing before turning in for a much-needed sleep.
Day 3: Sunday, August 14
Brekky at Super 8 was included, so we quaffed coffee, raisin flakes, and bagels with cream cheese.
We soon woke up properly when truck and trailer rolled backward, not quite intentionally—some muttering about ‘handbrake’ followed. Daniel cleaned the windscreen then we set off at 9 a.m.
At around 6000 feet above sea level, the landscape is mountainous with impressive escarpments. They gradually flattened out and became green areas.
Heading north on US Route 287 out of Rollins, we turned onto the desolate Casper-bound Wyoming Highway 220, once part of the Oregon Trail.
Past Steamboat Lake—no steamboats to be seen—we viewed lonely homesteads amongst a scattering of cattle. Listening to Greg’s Garage Pod featuring Greg White and Jason Pridmore, we see some blue skies breaking through while Daniel is driving this leg of our journey.
Trucking through Casper, known as The Oil City, the landscape alters again, becoming rugged with rocky outcrops. After heading north on I-25, we continued east on Wyoming Highway 397. Gentle grassier views greeted us.
We stopped at the Big D truck stop near Wright and opted for a repeat lunch—Subway for a Footlong. Meanwhile, our truck threw a warning that it needed its oil and filters changed, threatening that it might limit power.
We set off for the last leg of our journey to Lead, South Dakota. Just outside of Wright on the eastbound Wyoming Highway 450, we were soon confronted by a coal train so long that it disappeared into the distance even whilst stationary.
It turns out we were passing the Black Thunder Coal Mine, which sits on one of the world’s largest coal deposits. Black Thunder is the second most productive mine in the United States. Wyoming produces over 40 percent of America’s coal. The Black Thunder Coal Mine produced over 50 million short tons of coal in 2020, second in the country behind the nearby North Antelope Rochelle Mine, the world’s largest coal mine.
The sunshine stays with us and, a few hours later, pine trees take over, giving a happy-valley green look.
We start to see some motorcycles cruising along the way, indicating fun riding abounds. We enter South Dakota on US Route 85 into woodlands and winding roads. We’re headed to Lead—population 3000—nestling in the Black Hills just 17 miles southwest of Sturgis.
Lead is the location of the now-closed Homestake Mine. Gold was first discovered in 1876. Digging down 8000 feet, it was the deepest gold mine in North America until its closure in 2002.
Once we hit Lead—a corruption of the word “lode,” yet pronounced “leed”—a tight turn took us up a steep hill involving a couple of switchbacks. Our home on Mountain View Drive for the next week loomed into sight.
After some nifty maneuvering of the truck and trailer up the steep driveway and then turning in a tight area, we’re ready to unload. The four motorcycles have remained safely strapped in place.
The first beast to be released is the striking Yamaha XSR900, followed by the beautiful Candy Emerald Green Kawasaki Z650RS. Next, Daniel’s favorite, his Z900RS, is rolled down the ramp and out, and finally, Daniel’s Honda CB1100 EX. We set about taking a few shots of this little group of related motos when shouts and the revving of engines break the quiet of the evening. Our housemates-to-be arrived, causing a bit of a commotion as each realized the turn up the steep driveway.
An emotional reunion ensued for Daniel and Michael Sullivan—aka Mike—an old school buddy of Daniel’s from times spent together in Singapore American School. We were all enveloped in hello-hugs from Mike’s son, Alex, and his two buddies, Taylor and Brad. Making us a motley crew of four ol’ giffers, as we like to call ourselves, and three young dudes, all with the common interest of looking forward to riding together.
These guys have ridden from South Bend, Indiana. Michael is on a BMW R nineT, Alex is with the Ducati Streetfighter V4 S, Brad on his KTM 1290 Super Duke R, and Taylor on his mighty Triumph Rocket 3. The group gathered their light luggage and went inside to sort rooms.
We settle in for an evening of bonding over motorcycles, bourbon, beers, pizzas—oh, and a cup of tea for Arthur, who does not imbibe.
Day 4: Monday, August 15
Arthur, who also goes by AC, calls to book the truck for service. Once arranged, Daniel drives off to drop off the truck. AC follows on the Honda CB1100 so they can have a comfy two-up ride back to base.
We’re all keen as mustard to get on with the anticipated riding of the roads around South Dakota. We start by heading south to Cheyenne Crossing on US Route 14A, taking the long way to Spearfish, named after the clear creek that runs through it.
Arthur is on the Yamaha XSR900, and I take the Kawasaki Z650RS. The roads do not disappoint, and the retro-styled motorcycles are fun to ride. The asphalt is smooth, and the roads take enjoyable winding turns through Spearfish Valley, suiting the Kawasaki Z650RS at an easy pace.
I’m comfortable and enjoy the heady pleasure of riding without really having to think about the bike. The controls fall easily to hand, and the clocks give clear information in my peripheral vision. Most of the group rides off at a fast pace. Mike on his BMW R nineT ride rides with me, and we relish the route through masses of magnificent pines that occasionally give way allowing glimpses of mountains—pretty much perfect riding roads.
We pull in for lunch at REDwater Kitchen, a gastropub in central Spearfish. The classic American menu offers good choices for everyone except Alex, who abstains—we don’t ask.
We all sit in the back garden, going over the day’s events, and witness the appearance of a sweet-looking deer. Timid at first, but growing bolder, the deer are tempted by Taylor to join us for fresh avocados and mangoes. No one really knows what deer should be eating, but this dear deer is having a ball.
After much banter and filling of tummies, we set off again and headed back to Lead.
Day 5: Tuesday, August 16
With the work completed at Spearfish Motors, Arthur and Daniel ride off to collect the truck, and soon the truck is back at base. We all mounted our trusty steeds around 10 a.m. and headed to Mount Rushmore National Memorial.
The most striking thing about the roads is how smooth and well-maintained they are. Combined with the picture-book scenery, I was lulled into a feeling of appreciation and gratitude as the Kawasaki Z650RS hummed along in a nicely responsive manner.
Hunger pangs struck early, due mainly to the previous late night of drinking and chin-wagging. We stopped in Keystone at Jane’s Boardwalk Pizza in The Emporium. It has an ideal view from the upstairs balcony over the Main Street of the pretty town.
Traveling with motorcycles, you’ll always find new friends, and we tied up with an interesting character named Terry Yates. He’s here touring the Western half of the United States on a 90-day visa from Australia. This enthusiastic character tells us that he purchased the Honda NC750X that he’s riding while still in Australia and that it’s “perfectly adequate for the job.”
The purchase was arranged from his home overseas in Australia with HYR Motorsports of Redlands, California, a Honda, Yamaha, and Husqvarna dealer. Terry notes, “Hopefully, they will sell it for me.”
Terry says he’s been a lifetime motorcycle enthusiast and that his riding spans 53 years—from dirt bike racing beginning in 1970, turning to road racing in ’76. Terry raced competitively until 2012, and says he has a thousand stories about racing and its characters!
As a 70-year-old, Terry still rides track days on a Triumph Street Triple 765 and chirpily says, “Of course, I’m slower than I used to be, but I still thoroughly enjoy it, and can find no valid reason to stop.”
Terry has ridden 6000 miles so far on this trip. He will probably double, if not triple, that on his planned route through California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, and South Dakota, where we now share lunch. Next up are Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona—phew!
Appetites sated, we made the now brief ride to Mt. Rushmore. We bunched up in a bit of a bun fight to grab a parking ticket from the machine—all except Mike, obeying the clear signage: Motorcycles one at a time please.
Once parked in the cool shade under the visitor center, Brad discovered that his KTM’s radiator was leaking. Much discussion ensued, many phone calls were made, and the final decision was to buy a temporary fix from a hardware store and limp back to Lead.
Once our attention turned to Mt. Rushmore, I discovered with great joy that the Kawasaki Z650RS has an easy-to-use helmet lock—terrific, no need to carry my Arai around the sightseeing walk.
We took the time to go up to what seemed like heavenly heights to view the extraordinary Mt. Rushmore, marveling at the astounding sculptures of the faces of iconic American presidents.
The ride back via a hardware store in Hill City for the KTM leak was smooth going. With the weather balmy and the well-ordered road, it was supremely enjoyable plain sailing.
Later, a culinary evening back at base in the Mountain Manor House. The guys grilled up an enormous meal, and we once again petted deer in the garden amongst the silver birch trees.
Day 6: Wednesday, August 17
A whole day’s riding was not on the cards today since the young dudes of our party had to get the KTM radiator to a shop for repair. It was all hands on deck to remove the radiator and capture the coolant. Luckily, Daniel’s truck is available, so off went a couple of the lads to Oberle’s Radiators & Repairs in Belle Fourche—about 40 minutes to the north.
The remaining house members rode to nearby Deadwood for a meeting with Todd Ksenych, owner of Jerry Greer’s Engineering for the last 20 years.
I rode the Yamaha XSR900 and instantly liked how the riding position tipped me slightly forward. The steering is assertive and responsive, and the motorcycle has a tight, neat feel that is very positive. Even in the slower traffic of Deadwood, the XSR was maneuverable, and I found it easy to back into the curb.
Greer’s is a supplier and manufacturer of accessories and parts for Indian motorcycles built between 1936 and 1953—some 8000 parts are available. In Daniel’s opinion, Greer’s is one of the top vintage Indian shops in the country.
Todd showed us around the workings of his busy not-so-little business. The workshop is buzzing. We saw old Indians in various stages of repair, restoration, and servicing. Some looked ancient, and many looked brand new! Owners ship their bikes from out of state to Greer’s, one of only a few remaining companies offering this specialized custom engineering for old Indians.
We toured the warehouse and packaging section in an adjoining building that Todd acquired once the demands rose. Parts are new old stock, and many parts are machined in Watertown, on the eastern border of South Dakota. The building houses an ancient-looking elevator that adds to the rugged appeal of the shop area. There’s a comfortable seating area if you’re waiting around, and a wide selection of T-shirts and paraphernalia.
Daniel and Michael remained with Todd for a long lunch while the rest of the group set out for another ride amongst the famed Black Hills. The afternoon flew by in a blur of mixed riding and stops for catch-up banter.
The seemingly endless roads were eaten up as some of us rode off at a faster pace; others took a relaxing meander through the waves of trees. We could see just a few clouds, and the smooth, responsive Yamaha XSR900 made the whole journey back feel dreamy.
The final roundup that evening was at Saloon #10 in Deadwood. We ate heartily, enjoying the fabulous rooftop view. This is where “Wild Bill” Hickok, a legendary gunfighter of the American West, was murdered by Jack McCall on August 2, 1876. Immersed in history, we gorged on great food, although the outside metal chairs were not conducive to a long rambling evening!
Day 7: Thursday, August 18
Arthur and I started the day by riding back to Deadwood. Magical morning lighting was perfect for photographing the two motorcycles being ridden for Ultimate Motorcycling. Caffeine called, so we mellowed with a morning coffee before heading back to Mountain View in Lead.
The Broken Boot Gold Mine was an irresistible photo opportunity but, early as we were, tourists kept stepping into the shot. Riding early in the morning is a fantastic feeling. We took full advantage of little traffic, revving through turns at a sensible pace feeling on top of the world.
Sleepy housemates were roused and soon ready to rock—we were headed for Sturgis proper. We rode the fairly bendy US Route 14A towards Sturgis just over I-90.
The 40-minute ride was interrupted when Daniel’s CBX chuffed out some smoke—oil smoke. A gasket was letting some oil through, and we all pulled into a parking area near a lush green golf course under the gaze of some junior golfers.
Luckily for us, another rider on his BMW tourer followed us in. Doug offered help and handily had just the tool to fix the problem. Once again, we set off towards Sturgis.
Rolling into Sturgis, we see two dealers—Indian Motorcycle Sturgis and Sturgis Harley-Davidson. Enormous saloons are left and right. We spot just two cruisers representing the aftermath of the largest motorcycle rally in the world.
We rode into the almost-empty parking lot at The Iron Horse Saloon—a traditionally styled building on the corner of a main junction. The building sports wrap-around balconies on three levels—on the lowest level, a couple sat having a peaceful coffee. Two rampant buffalos—or is it buffalii?—flank the steps leading up to the entrance.
The interior envelops us in an Old West atmosphere. There are plenty of souvenirs and lots of cruiser gear for sale. We work our way through the animal skulls, stuffed deer, and animal skins adorning the walls to Ray’s Chop Shop to be greeted by our welcoming waitress, Terri Lynn, who chatted away agreeably.
The menu selection at this relaxed eating establishment was ample. Enticing items on the menu included The Cheese Louise and Sleazy Cheezy—the latter described as an ooey-gooey three-cheese blend. I opted for the Plain Jane Mac Attack, which did not fail to please. The food was good and filling, and Terri Lynn’s service was friendly and quick. She tended to all our requests and answered our questions about the area.
The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally is an annual gathering involving ten days of fun and frolic. Thousands of bikers meet up, and the town is overrun with mainly, but not exclusively, Harley-Davidsons. Parties ensue, along with bike shows and the famed live music events. The population expands exponentially for that short period—we’ve chosen to arrive after the chaos.
Daniel tells us about J.C. “Pappy” Hoel, an Indian motorcycle dealer in Sturgis who founded the Jackpine Gypsies Motorcycle Club in 1937. The following year, The Black Hills Motor Class was born, featuring racing, camping, homemade food by Pappy’s wife Pearl, and a Gypsy Tour through the Black Hills.
Pappy promoted motorcycling—he wanted every to put air in their hair and go on a run, and so he made Sturgis the destination. His Indian dealership was a hole-in-the-wall shop—maybe one brand new bike within, but that was it.
After WWII interrupted the rally, Pappy encouraged ex-servicemen to visit from around the country. He would supply hot dogs all day long, have conversations with these guys and fix their bikes. If they didn’t have any money—there were no ATMs, credit cards, or Paypal back then—he’d tell them to send him a check if they could when they got home. Pappy ran the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally into his 80s.
Terri confirmed that Pappy Hoel began the entire ride to Sturgis idea and gave us directions to his little shop. We all rode to Pappy’s, and it was indeed a small shop, now marked with a large metal spunky motorcycle rider sculpture. We took photos, and rode on to enjoy the Sturgis Motorcycle Museum to wrap up the day; add it to your must-do checklist when visiting.
Day 8: Friday, August 19
On our final day of riding these glorious roads, the sun rose with promise of another fine day and did not disappoint. Mike cooked up a stonking breakfast, and we watched two MotoGP warm-ups from The Red Bull Ring.
After topping up the motor oil of Brad’s KTM—not Binder—we took US Route 385 through Merritt and Hill City, a lovely fast road, down to Custer State Park. The $20 per motorcycle entrance was a surprise but, hey, they have a State Park to maintain.
The payment was well worth it, as we found ourselves riding alongside clearwater lakes, surrounded by breathtaking views from great heights. The roads take you wending through wildlife areas—we saw a bison!. Gigantic granite peaks closed in around us, and we rode tight one-lane tunnels before the road opened to trees and grasses, getting lower in elevation through tight turns.
Custer State Park is a truly beautiful place, and you can stay in lodges, cabins, or a resort. We met up with other bikers, including Serena riding solo on her Indian Chieftain hailing from New Jersey. We exchanged photos of each other sweeping through the rock crevices and wove through the scenic peaks, parking up frequently along the edge of jaw-dropping vistas.
Robert Pandya, a long-term industry friend and now the Buffalo Chip COO, had dinner with Arthur and me. We’d just spoken with Robert for a Motos & Friends Podcast prior to the 2022 Buffalo Chip event at Sturgis.
We hopped on the Yamaha XSR900 two-up and headed to Jacobs Brewhouse & Grocer in Deadwood, which claims to be “The home of the smoked brisket.” We sweep into a big parking lot and walk inside.
The walls are adorned with various guitars that once belonged to an array of loved musicians. Adding to the atmosphere, the guitars are just hanging there, rather than protected in glass cases. Paintings of whiskey bottles set against a star-spangled banner and detailed depictions of Harley-Davidsons are all over the venue.
Robert introduced us to owner Scott Jacobs, who is also a renowned moto artist. In 1993, Scott became the first officially licensed Harley-Davidson artist, and his iconic artworks sell worldwide. We had a chat and arranged for a Motos & Friends podcast recording.
I ordered the grilled salmon fillet with pepperberry butter, served with delicious vegetable couscous. Arthur chose the Buck Yeah—a hamburger with a hand-formed patty and everything from bacon to raspberry cream cheese. Robert selected the Shrimp and Sausage Diavolo with spicy red sauce on the white tiger shrimp, Italian Reggiano sausage with penne, and all topped with goat cheese. Perhaps Robert’s choice was influenced by the motorcycle-ish name Diavolo—Spanish for Diavel. Whatever the case, there were expressions of appreciation from both the boys.
Besides the food, the most outstanding aspect of Jacobs was the attitude of the servers. They seemed somehow wholesome, friendly, and on their toes—speedy with service and knowledgeable about the menu. The customers ranged through all ages, and it was a full house with people seated inside and out.
After a catch-up chat, Robert asks if we know about the vast amount of off-road riding in the area of the Black Hills. He tells us about the Get On! ADV Fest. Hosted deep in the Buffalo Chip campground, the event starts three weeks before the famed Sturgis Motorcycle Rally.
To get there, turn off Wyoming Highway 34 and take a short ride along Fort Meade Way, ten minutes from Sturgis. You can get ADV training at the event and discover the network of off-roading. For 2023, Triumph will be hosting demos on the Scramblers and Tigers. Harley-Davidson will run a Pan America demo program, giving plenty for riders to try out, plus an entire week of adventure exploration.
The 85th anniversary of the Black Hills Motorcycle Rally is three years away, and it is viewed as the last big party of the baby boomers, possibly the last time a substantial number of boomers will get together in the motorcycle world.
Robert believes the Buffalo Chip musical events help stitch together the generations. As we head to the next wave of bikers, there’s respect for the prior generation’s music and style. In the coming years, the rally is continuing the trajectory of a tradition while a generational hand-off is performed. Authenticity is crucial in the motorcycling industry—starting all-new won’t work to transition to a new era. With motorcyclists, there’s a built-in respect for the past, as everything is informed from the past.
It was at Buffalo Chip that ZZ Top played their first concert since the death of Dusty Hill, and it featured Dusty’s hat on a microphone stand. This year audiences heard and saw Lynyrd Skynyrd, The Art of Rap, and Ice-T. Lita Ford, a heavy-metal guitar mistress in the ’80s, opened on the night of Rob Zombie.
Performers are those that were popular 30 years ago and those that are just up and coming and about to break. This year, Stone Temple Pilots—now on their third lead singer after the deaths of Scott Weiland and Chester Bennington—played with Jeff Gutt at the microphone. Whether you’re an older generation and that was young music to you, or you’re a younger generation and been listening to that music your entire life, the unity of the crowd was phenomenal, Robert relates.
We asked about staying at Buffalo Chip. Robert says younger people don’t have big expensive RVs and are willing to stay in tents or use an Airbnb camper. There’s a wristband for $400 at rally time, giving you two full weeks of access to camp and all that live music, so you can pull in on your motorcycle and tent camp. If you purchase prior to the event the Early Bird price is cheaper so it makes sense to purchase in advance. If you’re looking to pull your RV in with full hook-ups, it’s going to cost more. Young people are more likely to buy the one-night $85 wristband, which includes the show. You might have your RV at a cheaper campground nearby, come over, party, have a great time, and return to your off-location campsite.
During the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, the cops are notoriously on top of road laws; they’ll fine you cash on the spot for a stop-sign infringement. If you don’t pay the fine, they’ll arrest you, and your ride will be impounded.
Sturgis is all about a combination of riding The Black Hills, live music, Custer State Park, and, most importantly, the riding. The Sturgis population of 6800 swells to an incredible 700,000 during the Sturgis Motocycle Rally. The rally is more than a non-attendee’s perception of only Harley-Davidsons riding around the roads of South Dakota.
Come our last day, we pack away quickly, take some selfies, share hugs, and off we go. Our little team headed back to California, taking only two days—we’ve logged 500 miles in the saddle, and thoroughly enjoyed our work.
Sturgis 2022 After-Party South Dakota Ride Photo Gallery
